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Tantalus Traverse In A Day - Beta For An Alpine Epic

Tantalus Traverse In A Day - Beta For An Alpine Epic

Date: 09/12/23

Route/Place: Sqaumish

Trip Time: 16:15 hours

Activity Type: Running / Scrambling / Rappelling

Trip Result: Successful

Rating: * * * * *

Road Conditions: Mostly up the Squamish valley road with a short 3km stint on their Mamquam FSR. My 2WD Pontiac vibe had no issues.

Route Conditions: Very good but this will change by the day. 


Check out some of our teams other adventures



Trip Report:

Because Tantalus Traverse highly depends on conditions and these change year to year, here is a list of things I would look to consider and learn about before attempting the traverse. Please seek out advise from guides or locals who may have been up there already, consider even taking a flight to check out conditions from above.

- Sigurd creek water crossing level

- Snow level on the back of pelion

- Snow bridge getting onto the rock gulley on Zenith

- Is the main ridge melted out

- Rap system familiarity - see descent beta here

- Moat size getting onto the snow below Dione

- Glacier coverage on Dione after the Dione gulley descent


Tantalus Traverse Timings 

3:45 to Pelion

6 to the Zenith bergshrund

8 to the Tantalus summit

11:30 to the Habrul hut

13:45 to the Russian army camp

14:45 to Lake lovely water

16:15 to finish


Tantalus Traverse Water

We were able to find water at the Pelion river crossing, a lake on the Pelion to Zenith ridge, a trickle at both the choss gulley on Zenith and the choss gulley before the Tantalus sub summit. The hut was closed so we used a small stream behind the hut, the russian army camp and lake lovely water.


Tantalus Traverse
Pelion Col
Tantalus Traverse
Making our way towards the bergshurnd, Pelion in the background
Tantalus Traverse
The choss gulley above the Zenith bergshrund
Tantalus Traverse
Downclimb onto snow after the Zenith col
Tantalus Traverse
Snow bridge between the final choss gully before the Tantalus sub summit
Rap #3 of the Altus Rap system 
Tantalus Traverse
Rap #4 of the Altus Rap System, anchor is far skiers right of the ledge
Rap #5 facing there rumbling glacier after the notch.
Traverse towards the last rap
Down climbing towards the dionne descent gully
Nealy at the Habrul hut
Russian army camp, the rocky descent from here is not trivial, follow a GPX



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