You’ve spent hours researching ski weights, comparing radius and flex patterns, speaking to friends and flexing every ski in the store. All to find your perfect ski touring setup. Now it's time to get your dream setup mounted with bindings.
You will get the question “Where do you want to mount your bindings?” We want to help you answer this.
Where To Mount Your Bindings
Ski design is about balance, different materials are used to give a desired feeling to the skier. Where you mount your bindings is just like that, you move the mount point forward or backwards and it changes the way the ski feels.
Manufactures choose a specific line (usually called recommended) on the ski that they feel suits the style of the ski and how it will be used.
Park & Pipe Ski
This type of ski will likely have a recommend line closer to the centre of the ski or even at true centre because the ski is designed to be in the air and spun. Having an even swing weight from a centre mounted ski is preferable.
This type of ski will likely have lots of tip rocker so much of the front of the ski is of the ground. This means ski manufactures will likely have a recommend line further back.
Mounting at the manufactor recommended line
This mount point will be satisfactory for most people.
This can often be called “recommended” or confusingly the “centre mounting point”. It’s not usually the true centre of the ski.
Mounting forward of the recommend line
The more forward you move from recommend and towards true centre does a few things
- provides a more balanced feel when in the air spinning
- less ski in the front creates a shorter tip and can provide a quicker turn initiation. But the tradeoff is that it may not release as well in the tail.
- going too far forward can create a feeling of “going over the handle bars”
Mounting rearward of recommended line
Increasing the amount of ski at the front will increase the amount of float you will have in powder and quicker turn release from the tail. If you have ever skied in heavy snow or powder and lean’t backwards, this is essentially what you are doing - raising the tips up.
Other things to consider
The rocker and camber of a ski has an effect on where you may want to mount the skis. Ski companies will take this into consideration when choosing the recommended line, so if your ski has a recommended line that seems very far back from true centre, it may be because that ski has a lot of tip rocker.
In general, our best advice is to stick with the recommend line unless you are familiar with moving your mount point.
Remounting your skis
It’s often thought that you can only remount skis three times. This is often not the case. What it comes down to is not an arbitrary number but
Can the new screw pattern fit around the old screw pattern, keeping a 1 cm gap between the new and old screws.
Sometimes this forces you to mount the new bindings more forward or backwards of the original mount point.
Things to consider - what the ski is made from?
When dealing with resort skis made from wood and even metal, you can get away with mounting more because the ski is heavier duty. However, with many lightweight skis using materials like foam and carbon, it can become more risky ad the ski is more fragile.
How often do you tune your skis
For an active rider, to keep your board or skis at their maximum level of performance; it needs a wax every 2 weeks, edges sharpened every 2 month and a base leveling and structure every season.
General purpose: to improve the performance of the base’s coefficient of friction
Recommendation: For equipment that is in perfect condition
- Metal side-edge deburr
- Base cleaner application
- liquid iron application of the wax*
- scrape and brush the base
Minor Tune with CSM
General purpose: Sharpening of the Base and Side Edges
Recommendation: For equipment with the base in good condition but needing a sharper edge
- Ceramic base edges sharpening*
- Traditional Side edge sharpening
- Hot wax Service
Pro Tune with CSM
General purpose: Maximum Perfomance
Recommendation: For equipment that needs to win a race
- Base weld
- Base grind
- Fine linear stone grinding (levelling)
- Blank stone grinding (polishing)
- Textured stone grinding patterns
- Side edge sharpening
- Base edge sharpening
- Hand finish sharpening
- Liquid hot box (pre wax conditioner)
- Hot wax
The best of the best.